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A-1 Reptiles
Bearded Dragon Care
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Bearded Dragons For Sale
The Bearded Dragon
We discourage the use of live plants, basically because they will eat them but also because allot of plants are toxic. If using plastic plants for decoration make sure the foliage is large enough that it can not be swallowed. Avoid all substrate products containing chopped or ground wood such as walnut or orchid bark as these are toxic !

There is allot of mis-information on the internet regarding basking temperature for bearded dragons. Temperatures at 110 or above can cause HEAT STROKE in reptiles. High temperatures can also cause sterility in males. The basking light should be placed on one end of your tank  with the temperature directly under the light reading 95 deg f with the other end of the tank staying room temperature 72-74 deg f. Buy a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer and make sure to monitor your basking temperature (can be found at any local garden center like Lowes). DO NOT USE STICK ON THE SIDE OF THE TANK BLACK FISH TANK THERMOMETORS! Ref; Mader Book of Reptile Veterinary care. Improper basking temperatures will cause an animal to become dark and dull in color.

You may use a regular sixty watt household incandescent bulb as your heat emitting bulb and buy a coil 5.0-10.0 UVB emitting bulb and set it up on the opposite side of your tank. Having two lights will require the purchase of a  second  light fixture.

You can also avoid the purchase of the UVB coil  bulb if you are able to sun your bearded dragon in an open window with screen a minimum of thirty minutes several times a week. You must raise the glass in the window as UVB will not penetrate glass but will go through screen. Personally I feel that natural sunlight is much more beneficial if your schedule allows for that.
Note: THERE ARE NO SAND DUNES. It is a medically proven fact that sand causes impaction in ALL reptiles

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Peal & Stick tiles placed on the bottom of the enclosure are perfect to line the bottom of the cage and make clean-up as simple as using a damp  paper towel completely alleviating the need for a substrate. They may be cut to fit any tank size.
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A-1 Reptiles has hand selected breeding stock from around the world for the most diverse bloodlines and striking colorations available on the bearded dragon market today.

Known for their extreme tameness, bearded dragons are social creatures and are very interactive with each other. They make excellent class room projects for teachers and students and can be a very personable pet.

Through selective and diverse breeding very colorful and beautiful hybrids have become available and highly sought after. Red crimson super blood bearded dragons became available in 2009.

Twenty-five years ago normal bearded dragons, gray in color, were rare and expensive. Through the selective breeding processes, highly colored specimens are now available on the market in rich reds, oranges and lemon colors and available at an affordable price from most dealers.

We do not list animals in half sizes ie; If a specimen measures twelve and one half inches we will round up and list that animal as thirteen inches etc.

Make sure a shallow water dish is available at all times. 

Adult bearded dragons may be fed once daily. Their diet should be varied and may consist of crickets, mealworms and fruits and vegetables and a protein source. A variation in diet is the key to good health and growth.  

Vegetables and fruits should be offered twice weekly. Fruits and vegetables may include kale, collards, mustard greens, turnip greens, parsley,  shredded carrots, shredded sweet potatoes, squash,  apples, bananas, strawberries, blueberries and raspberries. A varied diet is the key to good health. Provide a variety of different foods each week.

Collard greens are very high in calcium and should be a part of every meal. Stems should be removed and discarded and only the green leafy part of the green should be used.

Bananas are high in phosphorous and may cause some blocking of calcium intake so only use banana occasionally and not more often than twice a month.

Kale is high in iodine and they need some iodine in their diet but it should be used in moderate amounts.

DO NOT use Boston, Iceberg or Romaine lettuce as they contain very little nutrition and are 96% water. 

Apples should be used only occasionally as they are a bowl irritant and will cause loose stool.

Boiled eggs, shredded chicken, tuna or salmon can be added to any salad mixture for a nutritional protein source. Bearded dragons love eggs and eggs are an excellent source of protein, fat and D3 for babies and adults.

Bearded dragons are omnivore's so their diet should consist of a balance of protein, plant matter, fruits and crickets of the appropriate size for their age.

All food items should be dusted with a high quality calcium powder with D3 such as Rep-Cal w/D3. A vitamin supplement should be used once weekly such as Nekton Rep or Herptivite.

Crickets in themselves are not a nutritional source of food but are used in the reptile industry because of their large abdomen and ability to be gut-loaded. If you decide to add crickets  to their diet they should be gut-loaded for twenty-four to forty-eight hours with a high protein and multi grain  mix prior to feeding them off to the bearded dragon. Remember what the cricket eats is what the bearded dragon is eating as well. 

Never remove a bearded dragon from it's environment to feed. Always place food items or prey items inside their habitat where they feel safe and comfortable and at ease with their environment.

During the breeding season it is very important that females be given a diet rich in calcium and vitamins to maintain good health following egg laying.

In the fall adult bearded dragons may become very sluggish, dark in color and have lack of appetite. This is the bearded dragons "estivation" period leading into a  cool down prior to  breeding season. This lack of appetite and prolonged periods of sleep and muddy coloration is perfectly normal.

Pre-ceeding breeding season it is normal for adult bearded dragons to stop eating and sleep quite a bit so don't be alarmed when your bearded dragon becomes sluggish in the fall and stops eating for weeks at a time. During this semi-estivation period they live off of their glycogen stores in their bodies. After coming out of the estivation cycle the males will begin breeding the females  aproximately twenty days later.

Although bearded dragons will breed at ten to twelve months of age they do not reach their full growth potential for twenty-four months. A cool down should be provided for six to eight weeks during the winter (Usually December & January) prior to breeding season. Without a cool down your bearded dragons may not breed. Daytime & night time temperatures should remain 65-70 deg f during your cooling cycle.

Rearing youngsters together is no problem but males will begin to become sexually mature at the age of six to eight months.  Males will become highly territorial as they mature so once they reach the seven to nine month point only house one male to a tank.  You may house as many females as will fit comfortably in your inclosure with your male. Females cohabitate in groups with no problems throughout their life.

As already described above a basking light should be provided at one end of the cage. The temperature at the basking area should reach 90-95 deg f with the other end of the enclosure being room temperature 72-74 deg f. Improper basking temperatures will result in poor muddy coloration of the bearded dragon and improper digestion of food and poor organ function. It is imperative that the temperature be controlled and monitored by a digital read thermometer.

Again, exposure to natural sunlight, whenever possible is much more beneficial. Make sure the enclosure you provide outside for your bearded dragon allows for good ventilation so that the animal is not overheated while being exposed to sunlight. A shaded area should also be provided within the enclosure. Ideally exposure to the sun should take place several times  weekly with a minimum of thirty minutes of  exposure through the warm weather months. 

As stated above indoor enclosures should have a 5.0-10.0 UVB bulb. Follow placement of the UVB light exactly as stated in your instructions that come with the UVB light. Personally I prefer the coil UVB bulbs as described above to the longer fixtures and tubes as they take up much less room and are much less expensive. Basking lights should remain on during the day, following a natural outdoor light cycle but UVB lights are hard on the eyes so only run those five hours per day.  You can set your lights up with timers to come on and off at the proper times.

A word of warning.  There have been reported cases of photo-kerato-conjuctivitis reported caused by compact UVB bulbs (burning of the eye) manufactured with phosphors. If you use compact UVB bulbs follow the directions for placement distance exactly. Use bulbs manufactured with linear and not phosphors. If your not sure the bulbs contains phosphors call the manufacture and ask. 

Again, a regular incandescent sixty watt household bulb will emit enough heat for a proper basking temperature of 90-95 deg f. Failure to provide the correct basking temperature will result in respiratory infections.

As already described above,  it is possible to sun a bearded dragon through an open window if outside temperatures permit the opening of the window. Again, UVB rays will go through the window screen but will not penetrate window glass. DO NOT use glass tanks for sunning as they overheat to dangerous temperatures.TEMPERATURES AT 110 DEG F AND ABOVE CAN CAUSE HEAT STROKE AND DEATH IN REPTILES!

DO NOT USE SAND AS A SUBSTRATE in bearded dragon enclosures. Substrate materials should be free of sand as sand causes impaction in ALL reptiles. DO NOT use ground calcium carbonate (simulated sand) as there have also been reported cases of impaction in necropsy's with bearded dragons kept on ground calcium carbonate . I'm not sure how sand ever got suggested as a substrate source for the bearded dragon specie, or any other reptile,  but it has been one of the most detrimental substrates used. Sand also harbors allot of bacteria.  Bearded dragons do not live among sand dunes. The areas they are indigenous to are a soil/clay mix as seen below in the Australian photos.

DO NOT use wood chips or ground bark for substrates. Walnut shell and orchid bark are toxic especially when wet. There are allot of substrates sold in pet shops today. Just because it's sold in a pet shop does not mean it's safe. Wood products

Minimum housing requirements for an adult pair should be 32" x 32" x 32", which is similar to the dimensions of a rabbit hutch. A fifty-gallon long aquarium is also large enough to house an adult pair.

Babies should be housed in a minimum of a twenty-gallon long aquarium as described above, with a screen lid on top. The basking lamp should be placed on one end of the screen top. The UVB coil light can be placed on the other side of the tank. Climbing branches should be placed on the basking side and end approximately six to eight inches from the light. The basking area on the closest branch to the light should be 90-95 deg f. The opposite end of the tank should remain room temperature 72-74 deg f. Babies have such a small body mass they can dehydrate very quickly so monitor those temps. Temperatures at 110 or above will cause heat stroke in all reptiles. High temperatures will also cause sterility in males.

DO NOT use ten-gallon tanks to house babies. Ten-gallon tanks do not have enough surface space for heat from the basking lamp to dissipate. Using a ten-gallon tank to house any reptile can have deadly results. A ten-gallon tank with a basking lamp will act as an oven and dehydrate or literally bake the animal to death. They will also stop eating if over heated.

To date all data suggests the bearded dragon specie have genotypic or chromosomal sex determination unlike other reptile species where sex determination is determined by the temperature the egg is incubated at.

Male bearded dragons have a larger and wider head.  The femoral pores are very pronounced in male bearded dragons. Female bearded dragons have a narrower head and are shorter and heavier than their male counter part. The males also develop a bulge on each side of the tail just above the cloacol opening which quite evident at five months of age. 

Resting the bearded dragon on your hand and facing away from you gently lift the bearded dragon tail towards the head of the bearded dragon. The males will have a pronounced bulge on each side of the tail just above the cloacol opening with an indent in the middle between the bulging area. Female bearded dragons tails appear flat with a slight poof in the In sexing baby bearded dragons hold the baby bearded dragon in your hand facing away from you. Grasp the baby's tail  with your thumb and index finger. About half way down gently lift the tail towards the head turning the tail from left to right. Just as the adults for males there will be a slight indent in the center of the tail with a slight raised area on each side of the indent. In females the tail appears flat when twisted from side to side with a slight poof in the center. This sexing method works well but it is not 100% accurate in determining sex of young baby bearded dragons.

Specimens profiled on A-1 Reptiles available catalog page under the age of five months are site sexable but in babies there is no guarantee on sex due to their small size. Juveniles are site sexable at the age of five months and sex is guaranteed on specimens five months or older.

Bearded dragons will begin to breed at anywhere from twelve to fifteen months of age. The females abdomen will expand quite considerably when carrying eggs. 

Pregnant females should be provided with an egg laying box that is at least eighteen inches in depth and twenty-four inches long. The box may be filled with peat moss and top soil. Failure to provide females with egg laying boxes may cause egg-binding and will result in death for females. 

Female bearded dragons will lay anywhere from fifteen to thirty-five soft shelled eggs at one time. Females will lay each clutch of eggs in thirty day intervals and may lay anywhere from three to six clutches in a breeding season.

After the eggs have been laid they can be removed for incubation. Hoovabators are commonly used and may be purchased at any local livestock supply store. Temperature inside the incubator should remain at 85 deg f throughout incubation with a hatch time of about sixty days.

Vermiculite or Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss are excellent incubation mediums. I prefer to use Vermiculite. The Vermiculite should be kept moist and not wet. A slight indent should be made in the Vermiculite and the eggs should be placed within the indent. The top half of the bearded dragon eggs should remain exposed. The bearded dragon eggs will hatch in approximately sixty days at an incubation temperature of 85 deg f.

Bearded dragon babies should be fed twice daily. Babies should be fed crickets no larger than the size of one of their eyes. Food items should be chopped extremely fine and no food item should be offered any larger than the size of one of their eyes and that is the rule until the animal reaches twelve inches in length from tip of nose to tip of tail. If they ingest an item larger than the size of one of their eyes it will cause a spinal fracture and paralysis (also known as hind leg extension).

Local pet shops do not carry the appropriate size crickets for baby bearded dragons. Pet shops normally carry small, medium and large crickets and their smallest is to big for a baby bearded dragon and will cause death so buy those crickets from a supplier who has accurate sizes. We recommend Ghann's Cricket Farm 800-476-2248. Check you crickets when they are delivered because occasionally there may be a stray cricket that is larger than the bunch and that must be plucked out and discarded. If your young bearded dragons eats that large bug by accident it will kill your new pet! 

We use over two-hundred thousand crickets per month to raise the animals we post for sale along with greens, fruits and protein matter. We cut no corners when it comes to raising our bearded dragons.

Mealworms have a hard outer shell and are hard for babies to digest. This will make them sick and they may even regurgitate partially digested mealworms. Phoenix worms have no outer shell and are high in protein and may be used as a fat building source but feed the appropriate size. Phoenix worms should be no larger than the size of the babies eye in diameter so use the small Phoenix worms.

Dubia Roaches; I don't think I can say enough about the Dubia Roach. These roaches are high in protein and even the pickiest eater will not refuse a Dubia Roach. Starter kits of Dubia can be obtained from Dubia breeders for a modest fee . A one inch Dubia will be breeding size in a matter of months. Starting out with a group of fifty should produce endless feeder insects for one bearded dragon in all sizes in a matter of months and alleviate the need for purchase of crickets. These roaches do not climb and easily kept in a plastic container.

Very finely chopped eggs, fruits, greens, and veggies should also be offered to baby bearded dragons. Remove and discard all large stems from greens.All food items should be chopped fine and no single component should be any larger than the size of the bearded dragons eye. After the bearded dragon reaches a length of THIRTEEN inches  they can eat courser foods and any size insect.

WARNING: Lightning bugs are toxic to reptiles. Ingestion of lightning bugs will cause death. Do not use lightning bugs as prey items!

Our Orange German Giant X Bloods originate from European stock red/orange in color and are unrelated to U.S. stock. Offspring from these lines became available for the first time in 2007.

Feeding prey items any larger than one of the baby bearded dragons eyes will result in hind leg extension (paralysis) and certain death. The most common cause of neuromotor problems in bearded dragons is feeding pray items or foods that are to large. It's just that simple. Fruits and vegetables must be very finely chopped as well as already stated above. An electric chopper works fast and does a good job of finely chopping food items for babies.

Buying feeder insects from local pet shops can be very costly and they do not tend to carry the proper size crickets for rearing baby bearded dragons. It's much less expensive to purchase crickets from a bulk supplier and they carrier all sizes required to successfully rear baby bearded dragons. We highly recommend Ghanns Crickets 800-476-2248.

Young bearded dragons do not drink readily from a bowl. A-1 Reptiles suggest you soak your bearded dragon in luke-warm water several times weekly to help clean and rehydrate youngsters and adults. Make sure the water is shallow and do not leave the reptile unattended while soaking.

If you house bearded dragon babies together its important to maintain their feeding schedules as they will not hesitate to to bite off the hand or tail of a cage mate. Always house animals of similar size together to prevent accidents.

Coloration is more apparent as bearded dragons mature. Coloration is fully developed at the age of ten to twelve months.

Like all other reptiles bearded dragons shed their skin as they grow. Shedding appears as a ghost like color and may take up to two weeks or so to complete a total body shed. In photo one below is an adult female who's head and arms have already shed and her body is beginning to shed as well. Notice the ghost like appearance of the body prior to shedding. Photo two was taken two weeks later just as the back and head have begun to shed. Just after the two week point a total body shed is complete as shown in photo three.

Bearded Dragons are one of the hardiest reptile species available. They have very few health problems and when problems arise it is usually due to poor diet, hygiene  and lack of  proper supplementation. 

To little calcium can lead to MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease). Early signs of MBD can include shaking, twitching of arms and legs and soft jaw bones. Make sure the calcium supplement you use has vitamin D3 added to aid in absorption of the calcium consumed. Natural sunlight is also a good source of D3.

A single pair of bearded dragons may produce three to six clutches in a breeding season with twenty to thirty-five eggs in a clutch, making them quite profitable to breed.  If you are looking to make extra income you can't go wrong with a pair of bearded dragons. Their ease of set up and diet make them a most desirable investment.

A-1 Reptiles newest line in red bearded dragons became available in late spring of 2009 and these are the Red Crimson Super Blood bearded dragons. These red/orange bearded dragons came in from Europe as well and have an extreme red/orange coloration we've not seen on the bearded dragon market until now. Crimson Super Bloods are a smaller version of the bearded dragon growing to a total length of 14-18 inches. New in 2014 are the Orange German Giant cross Citrus which are orange/yellow in color.

We are very excited to announce we are currently working on Translucent bearded dragons,White Italian Leatherback bearded dragons, Red Italian Leatherback bearded dragons and Belgium Leatherback bearded dragons. Offspring from these four projects will be available in the summer of 2011. 

After conferring with a genetics professor at Bowling Green University on Leatherback bearded dragons, what people are calling a co-dominant gene is actually a dominant trait  (one dose of the gene and you see the trait). The term co-dominant does not meet the classic definition of co-dominant trait as used by geneticists. Therefore the Leatherback bearded dragon gene is actually a dominant trait. 

Leatherback's are much smoother and less spikey in appearance. This smooth appearance enhances the coloration and patterns of the Leatherback bearded dragons.

When breeding a Leatherback bearded dragon to a "normal" bearded dragon the offspring that are produced from this pairing will produce what is called visible hets. Roughly half of all offspring produced from this pairing will be Leatherback bearded dragons and the other half normal bearded dragons. This dominant gene appears to interfere with the scale formation in the developing embryo hence the term Leatherback bearded dragon.

When breeding Leatherback bearded dragon to Leatherback bearded dragon the offspring  produced from this pairing will be approximately one-half Leatherback bearded dragons, one-forth Silkback bearded dragons and one-forth normal bearded dragons. Breeding a silkback to a normal bearded dragon will produce one-half Micro Leatherbacks and one-half normals.

Silkback's have very delicate skin and their skin texture is similar to an earthworm. Silkback bearded dragons can have shedding problems and during times of shed Cow Udder Butter cream should be applied. This product can be found at any local livestock supply company. Do not put the cream around the Silkback bearded dragons eyes. It is important to follow these directions because Silkback bearded dragons can die in their shed if not kept lubricated while in shed. Once they reach the age of four months their care is a little less intensive. DO NOT USE REGULAR HAND CREAM on them as it will burn their skin.

Because of the lack of scales on both Silkback and Leatherback bearded dragons crickets should not be left in the cage at night as they are carnivorous and will chew off fingers and tails while the bearded dragon sleeps or may even kill them.

You can not produce leatherbacks or silkbacks from  non-leatherback offspring whose parents were leatherbacks.

Translucent bearded dragons first appeared in an English breeders breeding colony in 2001. The Translucent gene lacks white pigments. This is what gives the Translucent bearded dragons the appearance of see through skin. They also have solid black eyes or born with very dark brown eyes that turn black in a few short months.

When breeding a 100% Translucent bearded dragon to a "normal" bearded dragon the offspring from this pairing will be 100% het Translucent bearded dragons. When breeding a 100% het Translucent bearded dragon to a normal bearded dragon the offspring from this pairing will be 50% possible het Translucent bearded dragons. When breeding a 100% het Translucent bearded dragon to a 100% het Translucent bearded dragon the offspring from this pairing will be one-forth Translucent bearded dragon (with solid black eyes), three-forth normal looking bearded dragons of which two-thirds of them carry the recessive "black eye" gene hence they are called 66% possible het Translucent bearded dragons as these 66% possible hets can not be identified until they are bred. The growth rate in Translucent bearded dragons and leatherbacks is noticeably slower than in other bearded dragon morphs. Why -  At this time we don't know why but they grow at a slower rate until about the age of eight months and then they seem to take off and grow at a more rapid rate.

Being in a captive environment bearded dragons nails grow very quickly and can be trimmed with a regular nail clipper. If nails are allowed to grow to long they will curl and cause mobility problems. You can also place rocks and bricks inside the enclosure to help bearded dragons naturally wear down their nail ends. In the event a nail is clipped to short they will bleed quite  so keep some Styptic powder on hand and dip the bleeding nail in the Styptic powder and the bleeding should stop immediately.

Bearded dragons should be treated  twice yearly for parasites and worms just as you would your dog or cat. This can be done quite safely with over the counter med's. If you do not feel comfortable administering medications please consult your vet for your routine treatment. As a rule bearded dragons should be treated in the fall prior to estivation or their semi-hybernation period and in the spring prior to egg laying. A drop in weight could just be lack of fat in the diet but they can also pick up worms or parisites from their vegetation or your water supply. Especially well water.

Signs of weight loss can just be acclimating to its new environment but also can be simply just lack of fat in the diet. Keep in mind food items containing some protein/fat matter should be given or your bearded dragon may drop weight.  Simply greens is not a balanced diet.

I can not say enough about the bearded dragon. I highly recommend them if you are contemplating getting into reptiles or any other aquarium type pet. There is nothing, on the planet earth, that compares to the bearded dragon.

Baytril drops is the choice of antibiotics for infections of any kind. Bearded dragons do not do well with injections of any kind so avoid injections if your vet tries to talk you into it. Request Baytril drops !

We just want our clients to know this is all we do and we do it well !